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DIY Bunk Bed Part 3

Now that the stairs had been inaugurated and my daughter had slept the first nights in her new bunk bed, it was time to do the rest of the work. Various renovations in our house have taught me (often painfully) that you should do the small details as soon as possible. Otherwise, they will not be done until two years later. It still lacked the wall with the two windows and the lateral boundary to the window wall with two shelves, as well as the cover of the foot part.

The Stilt

Since the bed is 224 cm long, but the mattress is only 200 cm long, the slatted frame was still visible. Of course, this is especially problematic because it is very obstructive when entering and exiting. In order to correct this, I screwed a board -a remaining board from building the slatted frame- upright onto the supernatant from the slatted frame holder with a cordless screwdriver.

Before I did that, I had to correct the width of the board. Therefore, I used a table saw. On the resulting frame, I screwed a 24 cm wide board, which reached over the entire bed's width.

Now getting in and out is no problem anymore and my daughter has in an addition a place to deposit books.

The Front Wall

Instead of a railing or a continuing boundary, my daughter has wanted a wall with two windows. It extends from the lower edge of the bed to the ceiling and is slanted sideways towards the staircase. This makes getting in and out much easier - especially for me ...

The wall I also built out of laminated wood panels. For this I had to glue several boards to a larger board and then cut it to size.

In my opinion, the best option for this work is to use a Biscuit Jointer with corresponding dowels.

Using the Biscuit Jointer, cut a semicircular slit into the boards to be glued and insert the flat dowels into it. Then coat both plate edges and especially the dowels with glue, piece them together and fix them with clamps. The flat dowels ensure then that the plates can be connected smoothly. In addition, unlike roundwood dowels, they allow a bit of room for minor corrections when put together. So I glued a long one, a smaller board and two leftovers together and fixed everything with clamps. At the top, the board bended slightly, which I compensated with a counterweight.

After setting the glue, I transferred the measurements to the plate and sawed them out with a circular saw. The circular saw is the ideal tool for such work, because it is easy to carry and you can even achieve clean, straight cuts freehand. After sawing the plate to size, I drew the cutouts for the windows. At all four corners, I then drilled a 10 mm hole for the jigsaw with the cordless screwdriver.

With my cordless jigsaw I then sawed out both windows. For decoration, I wanted to frame the edges of the windows. To do this, I cut angle profiles from leftover pieces with my table saw, cut them to the correct length using the miter saw with a 45 degree angle and pinned them with the compressed air nail gun onto the edges.

Later, when my girls finally agreed on the right color shades, the frames can be painted. But before that happens, I screw the finished wall onto the front of the bed with chipboard screws.

The necessary stability is provided by a square wood that I screwed to the ceiling. Then I fastened it with screws from the front to the square wood. With that nothing wobbles anymore.

Rear Storage

Also the other side of the bed had to be secured against accidental "crashes". Since this was the window side, I could not block it with a wall, as on the other side, because otherwise it would be too dark. Naturally my daughter saw this differently ... We agreed on a board on which two shelves are mounted. Because I wanted to leave the windows out due to lightning reasons, the shelf is not continuous. Since both my wife and my daughter insisted that the curtains should hang freely, the shelves couldn't be too deep and had to leave enough room to the wall. These are details that you cannot plan as a man beforehand ... 

Since the bed was about 224 cm long and the glued wood panels were only in 200 cm length available, I had to use the Buscuit Jointer for the 24 cm board as well.

The shelves each consist of a board, which I stumped, then I applied glue and afterwards fixed it with pins.

Triangular supports provide the stability. These I also attached with glue and pins. The whole thing was quite easy and after everything was prepared, I fixed the board on the other side again with chipboard screws.

All in all, this project was really fun and made my daughter happy. For about 350 € she got a bed exactly as she imagined. She is still not sure if she wants to paint the bed in color or if she keeps the wood look. In the near future, I will provide a reasonable source of light in the bed. For that LED Stripes might be the best option. But first I need to see what my daughter says.

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