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Multi-functional firewood trolley

I had the idea for this project in winter as I always hauled the wood for the stove into the house. This was always very tedious and the several baskets that were usually piled in the room did not look so good either. There had to be a better solution!

Since I wanted to have everything on wheels (my back thanks me), I knew immediately in which direction the project should go. A skateboard and a wooden basket would not solve the problem of all the baskets around the stove. So the idea moved towards a "box". However, sufficient amount of things had to fit into it, so the box would have had to be quite high. But if the box was too high, you would not be able to reach to the bottom.

The result was that the box had to have several parts. However, I did not want to have crates since the bottom would only bother me, so I made a box that could be rolled and an additional box that could be placed on top.

There were a few advantages: Not only do I have a high box with lots of storage room for firewood, the trolley can also function as a table or – using both boxes individually – as two stools.

That is great for barbecues: stools, a table, and plenty of storage space for everything you need (wood or drinks). What you put inside the "rolling caddy" is up to each person.

Material Tools
4 wheels per trolley (I have taken 4 steering rollers, 2 have brakes) Saw
Wooden panels (18mm-thick OSB boards) Screwdriver
Screws Sander
Wooden dowels  

Step 1: Sawing the boards

First, I cut the wooden panels into 4 pieces with a height of 40 cm each (for the lower box) and then another 4 pieces with a height of 50 cm (for the upper box). The 40 cm is due to the rollers, which are an additional 10 cm high. As a consequence, both parts of the trolley are the same height in the end. I set the width of the boards to 50 cm.

I used the hand-held circular saw to saw the boards. Here I recommend, if necessary, to saw along a rail/end stop to get a clean cut. The floor board measures 51.8 cm due to the board thickness and side length. I cut it down to 52 cm to sand it down later (after assembly). Thus I can compensate the tolerances if necessary.

Step 2: Connecting the body

In order to build the boxes, I pegged the boards together. For further grip I also used glue and screws. For the latter, I predrilled and countersunk everything.

To prevent that the upper box slips, I made a frame to the lower box, which protrudes by just as much as the cover plate is thick.

Step 3: Fixing the lids

I have secured the cover for the upper box with slats on the bottom side of the cover.

In order for the cover of the lower box not to move, I have added a wooden dowel in the middle of the board.

For the upper cover I have made a hole in the center so that both are secured together.

The project was a lot of fun for me and I hope it brings you joy as well!

AuthorChristopher Thompson
Reading time8 minutes

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