Building a modern bedside table
Today I want to show you how I built this beautiful bedside table with the Einhell router. The whole construction is very easy and you don´t have high material costs. In addition, you´ll learn a lot from this article and you´ll be afterwards able to realize even more complex projects by yourself.
A little anecdote in advance, which probably every hobby do-it-yourselfer knows: Originally, I wanted to build a stool. However, the final product was better suited as a bedside table. Sometimes the best ideas come up just when you do not expect them.
In this article I show you step by step how to easily build such (and much nicer) projects.
|6x MDF board with coated surface / plywood board||Router|
|8 mm Slot cutter|
|Self-made circle for the milling machine|
Step 1: The Planning
If you know what you need to do before starting a project, then it´ll be a success. Guaranteed! I'll just show you how I did it with my bedside table.
In this picture you can see the bedside table from above. The lines mark the round support feet of the stool. I made a small mistake in my planning: I chose spruce wood. But spruce wood has a lower density and thus breaks apart more easily than other woods. Due to the construction, the risk of breakage here is slightly bigger.
For such a project, an MDF board with a coated surface would be optimal. Maybe even screen printing plates, because the material is very stable.
For visual reasons, I drew only the outer edge of the wood. Then I do not bother myself later with too many confusing lines. In the drawing above, the wood jumps inwards. This simply means that the wood is flush with the outer edge.
Step 2: Setting the basic structure
Now I set the circle of my bedside table, to be able to draw the width of my support feet. The support feet should not be too near the edges, as we need a certain amount of overlap for the table to be stiffened.
The diameter of the feet results automatically, because the lid has a diameter of 40 cm. So we can only get smaller if we move away from the center of the circle.
I placed them 12 cm to the inside from the outside edge. This is necessary because we need to overlap at the corners as well.
All the important dimensions I´ve noted for you in my drawing above.
Step 3: Creating the template
Now we work with the diameter of the support feet.
We have hereby a repetitive pattern, therefore I built a template so I don´t have to build each piece one by one.
The template in this case is the only thing we really need to focus on. On the finished component, we see that we have a circular shape with a notch. These are then simply plugged together to form a stable foundation.
The finished template I´ll show you immediately. But first we have to do something else.
Step 4: Setting the lines
The location of the slots is also apparent from the drawing. These are the nodes where the lines overlap (circled red in the picture).
Now create a new circle with the new diameter.
The "distance a" now marks the measure by which we have to jump inwards.
The complete diameter is marked again at the picture.
In the close-up of the not yet milled slot, we see how we can apply our measure suitable for the copy ring. The copy ring itself has a width of 17mm, our cutter has a width of 8mm.
The "HB" in the drawing stands for wood width. This just measures how thick the wood is, which later gets into the slot. I had 18mm because my wood was 18mm thick.
17mm – 8mm = 9mm -> 9mm/2 = 4,5mm
In other words, we have to add 4.5mm to the left and right of our actual milling path, in order to bridge the difference later during milling. We will be milling the whole thing with the Einhell TE-RO 1255 E. I also wrote a test report about the router.
In my drawing this difference is titled with an "o" and bounded by yellow lines. This area remains untouched by the router.
I cut these slots out with the circular saw. If you do not have one, or are worried that it will be inaccurate, you can work it out with a hand saw or chisel.
I made the circle with the simplest tools - a self-made milling circle. He cost me exactly one minute. When setting the radius on the compass, make sure that you deduct the 4.5 mm that your copying ring applies.
On the finished template, you can see that I am clearly deviated from the center of the circle to be able to apply the 4.5 mm. The thick pencil line marks the center of the circle.
The basic structure, and thus the most important step, is now finished. Now all we have to do is work it all out.
Step 5: The finish
Before every step - especially important here - you have to clamp your workpiece. I cinched my workpiece twice. Once the stencil itself on the plate and then the plate on the table.
It is important that the template fits very firmly, because it should not slip. If it slips, the slots no longer fit and you can forget this piece of wood.
As you can see, I screwed screws through it, to be able to mill in one gear. You can do so too. If you are working with valuable materials, I advise you to drill the other side (so the uglier side) with screws through.
Now we have to put the crown or in our case the lid on the whole thing. The easiest way is to mill a circle with a diameter of 40 cm. This is our lid.
The last step involves screwing the cover plate tight. Hereby I averaged out the plate on all four sides and then screwed it. You can also glue the parts together, to achieve a flat surface.
I hope I could inspire you to build it as well :-)